#38 Bar Ferdinand

Overview: At this rosy NoLibs tapas bar, the sangria flows freely and patrons gamely feast on the enormous array of (mostly) Spanish small plates.

Recommendations: Pixin con pancetta – a small skewer of fabulously fatty pork belly paired with salty monkfish and seasoned with rosemary.

http://www.barferdinand.com/

David's Thoughts: Bar Ferdinand is an undeniable establishment in Philadelphia. Nestled in the heart of NoLibs, it is ideally situated for a young and vibrant audience. The menu is truly expansive; you could visit 10 times and never repeat an order. The layout caters to the aforementioned visitors: an active bar buttressed by cozy seating and a decibel level that rises as you eat. Personally, this was my first visit to BF (a crime in the eyes of my peers) and I was very excited to "experience" the place. More uniquely, I was very eager to see the paintings and prints of Ben Kamihira, a great Philadelphia painter who spent much of his career teaching at my alma mater, The Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts. Truly folks, don't miss these artworks. They are unassisted by the dim lighting and raucous atmosphere, but take a "moment of zen" with the large painting along the entrance, and small prints/landscapes near the restrooms. They are gorgeous, and if BF took greater inspiration from these simultaneously sensuous and monumental works, it would be a much better restaurant. 

Alright, so we've got that covered. Now, lets dive into the belly of the beast. For me, BF is a restaurant thriving on potential and reputation, but certainly not substance. As I mentioned, the menu is overwhelming. Even with a group, it would be difficult to "sample" the wide variety of culinary categories presented. This is exciting and ambitious if backed by quality; unfortunately BF is not. While our waitress suggested that "2-3 tapas orders, per person, compare to a hearty meal", I would argue to the contrary. The menu, in my opinion, is carefully crafted to overspend. Everything on the menu costs just a tad more than it should- drinks, minor apps (see the marinated olives, below) and heartier, more daring tapas (I'm looking at you, Monkfish/Pork Belly skewers). 

On paper, the selection is absolutely mouth-watering. Here, let me lay it out for you. This was our order for the evening:

House Marinated Spanish Olives

Skewered Monkfish with Pork Belly

Squid-Ink Calamari with Chorizo and Lemon-Saffron Aioli  

A Shrimp/Clam/Mussel Seafood Stew

Grilled Skirt Steak with fried egg and truffle

Baked Goat Cheese with roasted garlic, honey, pine nuts and sage

Seriously, folks... HOW DO YOU MAKE THAT BAD??? Well, Bar Ferdinand pulled it off. Even the most decadent ingredients tasted poor... the skirt steak was over-charred, the squid ink overpowered the calamari, etc.  Our bill was unforgiving, and our stomachs were far from full. While I suppose the greatest appeal of a Tapas restaurant is the opportunity to try many things, most of our orders were insubstantial and far-from-shareable. With a party of 3 or more, sampling is unrealistic for BF's portion sizes (notice: 2 skewers of monkfish ( price: $4.50/skewer)). 

I saw a lot of people at Bar Ferdinand during our evening there. Most of them seemed happy. There were solo patrons on their laptops, couples chatting feverishly, and larger groups enjoying after work drinks/apps. I felt really strange sitting in the middle of all this and having such a thoroughly negative experience. What kool-aid was I not drinking? Sadly, our experience was resoundingly terrible; there was nothing redeeming about our meal. I would never recommend or revisit Bar Ferdinand. Sorry, Folks.



Beth's thoughts:  I am embarassed by how good these pictures make the food look. 

When I saw Bar Ferdinand on the list, I thought to myself, "Seriously?"  I had been here once before and decided that, based upon that one experience, I did not need to return. 

In my opinion, Bar Ferdinand is like a poor man's Tinto.  No.  Let me rephrase that.  There is nothing inexpensive about this place.  It is Tinto for those with a less refined palate.  It is like tapas for folks who frequent Applebees, or tapas for beginners.

The food had no taste.  The olives were fine, but really.  Bad marinated olives?  That's like messing up cold breakfast cereal.

The porkbelly and monkfish skewers were all about texture.  In fact, I'm not sure I even tasted...well...anything.  Should have asked for some salt...

The squid ink calamari was gimmicky and flavorless.  In fact, we didn't even finish it.

I almost liked the baked brie, but it was too shiny and buttery for my taste.  How can we imrpove upon cheese?  Let's put butter on it!  Yes.  A cardiologist's dream.  No thanks.

The wine list was extensive, yet bland.  It was a bunch of stuff I have seen before.  And the wines by the glass were unimaginative and wrote.

I don't know, maybe I'm just too old for this place.  In fact, I may not be young enough or hip enough for Liberties Walk, period. 

If I had the option between going here again or staying home, I'd stay home.

#39 Sovana Bistro

Overview: You won’t see anything on the menu at this bustling Kennett Square bistro that you haven’t seen before – you’ll just see it done right. The pasta’s homemade, the pizza’s brick-oven-blistered, and even a simple hanger steak is memorable.

Recommendations: The potato rosti (basically, the best hashed brown you’ve ever had).

http://www.sovanabistro.com/

Beth's thoughts: There is absolutely no good reason for someone who lives in South Philly to drive almost an hour to eat at an italian restaurant. Unless the restaurant is Sovana Bistro in Kennett Square.

Now, let's set the scene.  I live in Philly but work in the suburbs.  Ok, New Jersey.  Some may find that to be even worse.  (An aside: anyone who was offended by my poking fun at NJ, check out http://jerseydoesntstink.com/) The last thing I want to do after my commute home is get back in the car and drive AWAY from Philly proper.  I don't even like going to the Northeast.  So, after much hemming and hawing about when to visit our next stop on our culinary journey and deciding who would be the designated driver - I drew the short straw - David and I piled into my little girlie truck and began our pilgrimage out to mushroom country. 

Almost an hour into our trek, and after passing such notable stops as the Chadds Ford Winery (http://www.chaddsford.com/) and The Brandywine River Museum (http://www.brandywinemuseum.org/) our GPS finally announced "Your destination is on the left".  Looking to the left, we only saw a strip mall with shops and a dentist's office.  David and I looked at each other and wondered, "#39 couldn't possibly be in a suburban strip mall, could it?"

It was.  But that's where any preconceived notions of a suburban restaurant ended.  Well, not quite, there was one other thing...

The first thing that we noticed when we walked in was the swanky decor.  The inside of this restaurant could have been in any building in Rittenhouse or Wash West.  Immediatly, my expectations changed. 

We were early.  I did not expect our table to be ready for us.  I figured we would have to order a drink and stand at the bar until a table became available.  Instead, our table was ready and waiting...and the bar was empty.  Completely empty.  If this place had been in the city limits, the bar would have been packed.  That was the only other evidence of our journey to the 'burbs.

Once we were seated, we were introduced to our waiter Matt.  Now ladies, if you do venture out to Kennett for this dining experience, pray you are seated in Matt's section.  His serving skills were just fine, but his personal presentation was quite remarkable.  I walked out with a full belly and a newly developed crush. 

While we browsed the menus, we asked Matt for a drink suggestion.  After telling him what types of drinks we generally prefer, he selected a Sazerac for me.  Not too sweet, not too dry, all I can say is yum!

After considering the regular menu and Philly Mag's suggestions, we opted for the prix fixe offering.

After making our selections, Matt brought our pre-appetizer amuse bouche - a single serving of lentil salad.

Next, our appetizer arrived.  We both ordered Tuna Tartar with homemade potato crisps. 

Following our appetizer, we were offered a small intermezzo to cleanse our palates before our entrees arrived.  It was a mini grilled cheese.  The bread was amazing and the cheese was tasty.  The combination was crispy and gooey in all the right places at the same time.

For my main course, I selected one of their house made pastas - the Papardelle Wild Boar Bolognese. 

I am proud to report, it was an excellent choice.  I cleared my plate.

...BUT.  And you know there is always a "but" with me.  Sorry, it's just how I roll.


While I did thoroughly enjoy this dish, I have to rate it as the SECOND best Wild Boar Papardelle that I have ever had.  THE ABSOLUTE BEST Wild Boar Papardelle can be found a Paradiso on Passyunk Ave in South Philadelphia http://paradisophilly.com/.  Pardon me as I ascend to my soapbox, but for the life of me I can't figure out why Paradiso is not on the Philly Mag Top 50 list.  So far, we have sampled various Italian fare at restaurants near and far, but none compare to Paradiso.  I know, I know, Sovana is only #39.  I know, we have many more dishes to devour.  But c'mon Philly Mag.  Paradiso?  Omitted?  Completely????  WTF, man?

Sovana.  Overall, I had a great experience at this restaurant.  The food was excellent, the service was impeccable, and the atmosphere was top-notch.  I will most certainly return and encourage you to visit as well.

David's Thoughts: Beth summed Sovana Bistro up nicely. Simply put, this trek (and it is quite a distance) was my favored culinary journey, so far. Sovana Bistro is everything I love in a restaurant. It has a sophistication that is more rustic than stuffy. Great service. Outstanding food. A healthy pace that lets you savor your food, enjoy your company, and still feel like you're part of something that is energized and exciting. Your meal will be delicious, and affordable. The courses are easy to share (they have a great pizza and appetizer selection) and substantial enough to fill your stomach. Incredibly, they also offer the convenience of take-out (for the locals) and very comfortable bar seating (for the cityfolk that didn't make a reservation).

I'll confess that I've been to Sovana twice since our visit, and each experience has been solid. Without a doubt, there are a few superstars on the menu. If you visit this place, you MUST order the Tuna Tartare. It is an elegant display of supremely fresh fish, complimented by a subtle jolt of acidity, nestled atop a sculpted base of avocado. Nothing could be more simple, elegant, or delicious. The accompanying chips are a perfect, salty foil- allowing you to savor every tiny bite of this dynamic appetizer.

The other standout (of my selections) was the Roasted Chicken. I know... I know... who orders the Chicken?!?! Well, that was my initial thought when Matt recommended it. When it comes to entrees- especially on a fixed price menu- I'll often ask the waiter for a suggestion. What is the "can't miss" option? When Matt replied that the steak was solid, but the chicken was better... I almost regretted my inquiry. "Damnit, Matt. This was an amazing meal, and now you're gonna a) ruin it by making me order the chicken, or b) hate me for going against your suggestion." What can I say, I was skeptical, but I'm glad I listened. the bird is cooked perfectly- soft and juicy with a crispy skin that should put KFC out of business. It was served atop a MOUND of buttery potatoes, and succulent greens. This is the meal your mother wishes she could make. It was knock-out good.

After our main courses (and busting at the seams), we decided to split a dessert (it came with the meal) and spend a few dollars extra to sample the Cheese Plate. I have to say, I am super picky when it comes to cheese plates. I want blocks of cheese, not slivers. And don't try to fool me with mustards, chutneys, and honey-apple-mango-apricot-butter. This is about the cheese, folks. Sovana's platter was delicious, and the overall sampling was exceptional. The quantity was not overwhelming, but as a dessert, I'll live with that. Besides, I was stuffed anyway. I suppose my conclusion was: I wouldn't order the cheese plate again. Not because it was bad, but because everything else was so good. It may be a #1 starter on some teams, but at this restaurant, its sittin' on the bench (you're welcome for that sports analogy).

As for my dessert, it was alright. An ice cream sandwich thingy. Not great. Not bad. Wouldn't get it again. But as for Sovana Bistro- I'll be back. Its a great spot; somewhere that nobody should miss. Go alone and sit at the bar. Arrive early and bring a date you want to impress. Stay late and cherish a meal with close friends. Just make sure you get there.