Recommendations: The deconstructed bouillabaisse...Seafood is Moroney’s strong suit...One of the better warm chocolate cakes around.
http://pumpkinphilly.com/
David's Thoughts: Pumpkin is one of those restaurants that I've seen a million times, but never visited. Their culinary approach is simple and appealing: a menu in constant flux catering to the chef's innovations, seasonal freshness, and locally-grown ingredients. Sounds dynamite, right?
There are a few things to know before you arrive at Pumpkin. Don't make the mistake of stepping into Pumpkin Market (located a block down the street). The owner is the same, and the signage is similar, so without an exact address this can be confusing. Also, Pumpkin is really small. There are probably only 8 or 9 tables in the space, and only one large enough for an over-sized group. They are cash only (I HATE this) and there are no machines in the immediate vicinity, which is inconvenient. The restaurant is a BYOB, so that is a fiscal advantage.
Stepping into the restaurant, I was the first patron of the evening to arrive (which felt akin to being the first guest at a party). Our very sweet hostess showed me to our table (Beth was late... go figure) and made polite small talk. She was very thoughtful- which is important in such a small restaurant. You can't really get away from people here, so it is good that the servers are great company.
The menu at Pumpkin is sparse: expect about 10 menu items (appetizers and entrees, total). With the constantly-changing menu, it is difficult to find a "go-to" dish. That is a complaint that I have with seasonal menus, generally. If the chef wants to switch things up, sounds good to me, but have a few powerhouse options that never go away- just for the sake of stability.
The flavor pairings at Pumpkin are fresh and exciting; you won't taste anything predictable here. This makes it a bit challenging to order with confidence- you have to trust the chef. Our dishes, to be honest, were "hit-or-miss." Some were delicious, and others were not my favorite. Nothing blew me away. Here are the details:
Green Gazpacho Soup: This is an appetizer I would never have thought to order. Our waitress (who, as previously mentioned, was delightful) described the soup for us: a deconstructed soup, chilled until ice cold. We opted for a different appetizer, but she sensed our curiosity and was thoughtful enough to bring us a sample. This soup was a delight; the flavor and texture highlights were as invigorating as the soup's electric green hue. Chilled and joined with fresh cream, exclamations of mint, and a subtle crunch of finely-chopped almonds- words don't do this soup justice. If you go to Pumpkin, order this- you'll be pleasantly surprised.
Foie Gras: Foie seems to be one of our "go-to" orders on this adventure. Beth is a fan (maybe she'll have her own take on the dish) and while Foie Gras isn't my favorite dish, it is sophisticated and fancy- which is part of what this experience is about. For me, this was a disappointing dish. The foie had a texture that was solid but uber-creamy... something akin to refrigerated toothpaste. The pistachio and fennel undertones were enticing, but the richness of the dish was a bit too much for my palate.
Grilled Calamari: This was not my favorite dish. When it comes to squid (calamari, octopus, etc.) I look for both quality and quantity. I have a few Philly favorites that my palate simply won't forget (Dmitri's mound of lemony, char-grilled octopus) and this dish didn't compete. The calamari was a bit on the over-cooked end, and the serving size was simply insubstantial.
Long Island Duck: My entree for the evening was the roasted duck, an atypical order for me. Honestly, nothing on the menu really jumped off the page, and I'm hesitant to order the easy option (steak). Plus, I wanted to try something different and honestly the duck was delicious. It was probably my favorite dish of the meal, and certainly the most substantial.
Beth's Thoughts: Yes, I arrived late. Sue me. But guess what. Pumpkin is a BYO, and I brought the wine.
Prior to my arrival, David called me and warned me "not to go in where I thought I should." Of course, where I thought I should was the grocer of the same name. If you are walking from East to West, David is correct:"Pumpkin" the restaurant is not the first "Pumpkin" sign that you encounter.
By the time I arrived, David already had an established rapport with the waitress. She giggled and smiled at me as if I were David's date. This annoyed me, not because I wouldn't be proud to be David's date, but because she assumed this. One should never assume. It is bad form, especially in the service industry, where one's wife may be easily replaced with one's girlfriend on any particular evening.
But as I am neither a wife nor a girlfriend, this may seem irrelevant.
But it's not.
So anyway, the food.
Green Gazpacho Soup: What David said. Unexpected, yet excellent.
Foie: NOT what David said. I thought this was a delightful dish, though different from the foie I was expecting when I ordered it. I guess I was expecting a typical warm slice of liver - if foie could EVER be described as typical - with some type or garnish that would become part of the taste experience. I must have missed the part on the menu that described the foie as a mousse, but then again, maybe the menu just poorly described the dish. Either way, I liked it. I enjoyed the creamy texture, and the sweet and salty inclinations danced over my tongue were a perfect match. Bravo foie.
For my entree, I selected the scallop dish. I was going to call it the scallop special, but at Pumpkin, with its menu changing daily, I do believe they consider all of their dishes special.
There was nothing special about these scallops. In fact, I found them disturbingly forgettable. Even the foam. I hate to say it, but I was really expecting more from you, Pumpkin, especially after two fabulous appetizers. For shame.
Pumpkin. I'd go back. With a menu that changes everyday, how could I not? Even if I do stumble upon a dish that doesn't thrill me, I'll probably never see it again. Besides, I'll be too interested in the new selections to choose from that I probably wouldn't think to order the same thing twice. I'm not sure that the prices align with what we actually received...it is a little pricey...but it wasn't obscene and I wasn't bothered by it. The cost would not deter me from dining here again.
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